We originally published this as a 5-part series ‘All About Watercolour Paper’
– now posted here in one long article.
All About Watercolour Paper
Good watercolour paper is versatile, strong and enhances the appearance of your watercolour painting.
Hand-made, Mould made and Machine Made.
There are 3 main varieties of watercolour paper –
Here’s a description of the differences.
Handmade paper – Tends to be made of 100% cotton and is very durable. The irregularity of the surface of handmade paper is very desirable among some watercolour artists. It tends to be heavier than other watercolour papers and so does not require stretching. Because of its high durability it can withstand scrubbing and lifting of colour from its surface without showing visible damage.
Mould Made paper – Mould made paper is made by a machine which consists of a stainless steel vat and a cylinder mould, which is usually up to around 260cm in circumference and 130cm in width. The cylinder is placed in the vat, and a very dilute mixture of pulp and water is pumped into the vat. This mixture forms a fibrous web on the cylinder mould. This fibrous web is then pressed to varying degrees to form the varying surfaces available. Some cylinders have deckle frames on them which enable them to replicate the deckled edges of handmade papers. Mould made paper manufacture can also produce rolls of watercolour paper. Many artists favour mould made watercolour papers as they are more consistent in their durability than handmade papers but match their beautiful surface textures.
Machine made (fourdrinier) papers – Are made using a flat machine that consists of a forming section (where a slurry of fibres is filtered out on a continuous loop to form thin ‘sheets’ of the wet mixture), the press section (there is sheets are then pressed to remove as much of the water content as possible), the drying section (where the sheets are then snaked through a number of heated cylinders in order to remove more of the moisture so that the sheets contain around 6% of moisture) and the calendar section (where the paper is smoothed into flat sheets). This process of making paper is least sensitive to the characteristics of the materials used, and tends to be less favoured by artists. However, they do produce paper consistently.
Paper Weight and Surface Textures
The Weight of Paper
Paper weight is either measured in grammes per square metre or by lbs per ream. Jackson’s Art Supplies sells paper of a variety of weights, from 90lb – 560lb. We recommend stretching paper that is lighter than 250lb in weight as it is more likely to warp when watercolour is applied to its surface if not stretched. The very heaviest weights tend to be handmade papers that have texture.
Watercolour Paper Textures
Watercolour paper is available in 3 textures, although there are some pads and blocks that are not available in all 3 textures, so it is worth having a look through what is available in each range.
What is Hot Pressed paper?
Hot Pressed paper tends to be favoured by artists that like to work delicately and with a lot of subtle detail, for example botanical artists. It is the least textured surface, and is completely smooth as it is pressed between 2 hot metal rollers. It is also favoured by artists who will want to reproduce their watercolour on smooth paper.
What Does ‘Not’ mean?
Not and Cold Pressed paper amount to the same textured surface – this is the name given to paper with has a slight tooth to it. It is the most popular surface for watercolour painters as it allows for a little texture in your work, as the paint will sink a little into the dimples on the surface of the paper, but it will also be sympathetic to some detailed work. It is made by pressing through the cold metal rollers. It is thought to be the easiest watercolour paper surface to work on.
Rough surface paper
As one might expect, rough surface paper is the roughest texture paper available. It is pressed between sheets of textured felt during the drying process, which is why it has a felt like texture. The heavier ingrain of texture means that granulating (irregular colour application) effects are enhanced. This paper surface is not recommended for those interested in detailed work and is more suited to bolder, more expressive painting techniques.
Paper Sizing and Stretching
Watercolour paper sizing
Watercolour paper is traditionally sized with gelatin so that the watercolour paint does not sink straight into the paper. The gelatin provides a little resistance and forces the paint to sit on the surface and only partially sink into the paper. Paper can be sized with gelatin internally or externally. Internal sizing is when the gelatin is added to the water and pulp mixture before the paper has been made, and external sizing is when the sheets of paper once made are soaked in a gelatin bath. Internal sizing ensures that the paper does not become more absorbent even after scratching or scrubbing the surface of it. Many high quality papers are both externally and internally sized. If the sizing on a paper has been too heavily applied then it can easily be removed by soaking the paper in a bath, then removing and sponging the excess water off before leaving it to dry. This process is usually done anyway if the paper is being stretched by the artist. You will know if a paper has excessive sizing if the paper is resisting the paint more than it should, i.e., it forms as ‘bubbles’ of colour that gather on the surface of the paper.
How to stretch watercolour paper using Gummed Brown Paper Tape
The most common and inexpensive method of stretching paper is to begin by soaking it in clean water. For large sheets of paper it may be best to fill your clean bath with 5-6” of lukewarm water. Slide the paper carefully into the tub and leave it to soak for a few minutes. This will dissolve a little of the sizing of the paper. Carefully lift the wet paper from the tube and lay it on to a clean and dry board – a plywood drawing board would work fine. Sponge off the excess water gently, with a clean sponge – the outward motion you use to do this will help flatten the paper on to the board. Once you feel that the paper is adequately stretched out, wet your gumstrip and fix this to the outer edges of the paper, so that half is stuck to the board and half is stuck to the paper itself. I find that by putting the tape into the same bath water and then sponging off the excess water in the same way that you did with the watercolour paper works very well. Lay flat and allow this to dry (in the sunshine it doesn’t take too long, but it may need to be left for a morning, afternoon, or overnight to be completely dry) before you start your painting. When your painting is finished leave it to dry completely before cutting the paper free form the board using a sharp craft knife.
How to use a Paper Stretcher
Paper stretchers make the use of the gum strip tape redundant. You just need to soak the paper in the same way you would with gumstrip paper stretching but then fix the paper to the frame. Our economy paper stretchers and the Keba Artmate paper stretchers work in different ways. The economy paper stretchers consists of 4 bars and clip together – make sure that your sheet of paper is the right size for the frame you are using, immerse in water and then clip the frame around it, which will keep the paper taut. It is a lightweight paper stretcher and works better in the smaller sizes. The Keba Artmate paper stretcher has a backing board supplied and you can achieve a tighter stretch with it – if it becomes slack there is a key to tighten the frame again if necessary. There are 2 ways of stretching watercolour paper with the Keba Artmate – either you spray the back and edges of the paper to stretch, by doing this you can start to paint straight away, or you can soak the paper and stretch, allowing it to dry fully before work. The Keba can also be used for temporarily stretching pieces of silk or canvas for painting.
Paper Making Materials
What is the difference between Cotton Paper, Woodfree paper and Bamboo paper?
In our glued pads we do 3 varieties of paper – cotton, woodfree and bamboo, and we are often asked what the differences are. 100% cotton paper is generally considered the best quality. It is made from cotton linters which may have been taken from cotton rags. In the case of Khadi papers the linters are literally taken from old t-shirts! The length of these fibres is a lot longer than wood fibre and this makes cotton paper a lot stronger and more durable. It is also acid free which means that it will not deteriorate over time (acid can cause papers to yellow and become brittle).
Bamboo paper has been used in Chinese arts for hundreds of years, and Hahnemühle have reintroduced it as a low cost alternative to cotton papers. Bamboo is a highly sustainable material and so its use in paper making is considered incredibly environmentally friendly. Bamboo fibres again are relatively long which contributes to the strength and durability of the paper. It is naturally warm white and so it does not require any bleaching processes, which is also environmentally friendly and contributes to the longevity of the paper. The Hahnemuhle Bamboo paper is made of 90% bamboo fibre and 10% cotton, with a lovely unique surface.
Did you know that ‘Woodfree’ paper usually contains wood?
Woodfree is a shortening of the term ‘groundwood-free’ and what this actually means is that the woodpulp used in the paper manufacture has been broken down chemically as opposed to mechanically. This removes the lignin in the woodpulp, which is the substance that holds wood fibres together, and by removing the lignin the paper is strengthened, whitened and made purer. The acid content is removed which minimises discolouration over time.
Artists should avoid using any papers that have wood content that has been ground mechanically is it will not be stable and long lasting.
Extra White Papers
A note about extra white/high white papers
Extra white and high white papers at present can not be described as having a bright white appearance. They are whiter than their traditional countrparts, but are still creamy white. This is currently as white as can be achieved without compromising the stability of the paper. The extra whiteness is achieved by adding a little bleach to the paper, as well as a small quantity of titanium dioxide pigment. Optical brightening agents (which can be found in lesser quality papers such as Fabriano 5) are not used as their effectiveness deteriorates with exposure to light and as a result, the paper will appear to become yellow after significant exposure to UV rays.
Watercolour paper is available in the following formats at Jackson’s Art Supplies:
Watercolour Glued Pads
Glued pads are glued on one side only. Jackson’s Art Supplies sells a number of brands of varying qualities. The highest quality brands of glued pads are by Arches Aquarelle, Saunders Waterford and Langton Prestige. These pads are all 100% cotton which means they are the papers least likely to yellow, and the most durable as well. More detailed descriptions are given in order of quality in the watercolour glued pads section.
Watercolour Paper – Loose Sheets and Rolls
Traditionally, watercolour paper sheets come in the imperial size which is 30” x 22”, and there are usually 2 or 4 deckled edges depending on the method of manufacture. The larger your sheet of paper the more susceptible it is to cockling if it is worked on with fluid applications of watercolour paint, and so generally stretching is recommended for full imperial sheets of paper. If your paper has been cut into half imperial or quarter imperial size then generally it may not be so necessary to stretch the paper if the weight of it is greater than 200lb. At Jackson’s Art Supplies we sell a wide range of different watercolour papers, the majority of which are either mould made on a cylinder or handmade. A full guide to the Watercolour papers we do in sheets and rolls can be viewed the in the ‘Watercolour paper – loose sheets and rolls’ section.
Watercolour Boards that do not need stretching!
Daler Rowney Saunders Waterford Watercolour Board, Arches Aquarelle Canson Board, Daler Rowney Line and Wash Board, and Crescent board.
Watercolour Boards are sheets of watercolour paper that have been mounted on to a rigid, acid-free and archival card. This means that they are rigid and do not require stretching. More information on our watercolour boards can be found in our ‘Watercolour Boards’ section.
Watercolour Blocks
A watercolour block is a pad of watercolour paper that has been bound on all 4 sides. Usually the block of paper is secured to a rigid sheet of card. The sheets of paper are bound while they are wet, which means that they dry flat, and when they are used, the binding keeps the paper flat regardless of how much fluid watercolour is applied to the surface. Watercolour blocks are very practical because there is no need to stretch your paper before work. As with all watercolour surface products, blocks are available in a range of brands and standard which are reflected in the price and suitability for varying levels. Below is a rough guide to what is available at Jackson’s Art Supplies, more information on all blocks is in the ‘Watercolour Blocks’ section.
Watercolour Blocks for Beginners and Students:
Hahnemühle Britannia
Hahnemühle Veneto
Hahnemühle Cornwall
Hahnemuhle Anniversary Block
Winsor and Newton Cotman
Jackson’s Watercolour
Clairefontaine Aquarelle Etival
Daler Rowney Langton
Watercolour Blocks for Professional Artist use:
Superior watercolour blocks are made of cylinder mould made or handmade cotton papers, that are more age resistant, even less likely to yellow, acid and chlorine free, resilient and more characterful in their surface texture. The watercolour blocks that are for sale at Jackson’s Art Supplies that fit this description are:
Arches Aquarelle
Fabriano Artistico – Traditional and Extra White
Hahnemuhle 300gsm
Jackson’s Eco Paper
Saunders Waterford Traditional
Clairefontaine Fontaine
The Langton Prestige by Daler Rowney
Hahnemühle Cezanne
Hahnemühle Leonardo
Hahnemühle Tiepolo
Postcard Pads
Postcard pads are a wonderful unique way of telling the tale of your travels to your loved ones. These postcards will withstand light applications of watercolour without buckling, and once you are done you can write your message, address and fix and stamp and your postcard is ready to send! The Hahnemuhle Watercolour Postcards are 230gsm, rough surface and measure 10.5 x 14.8cm. There are 30 postcards in a pack, and they come in an attractive metal tin. The Jackson’s Watercolour postcard pad is bound with a black gauze tape down one side. They are 350gsm and there are 12 postcards in each pad. Daler-Rowney puts 12 sheets of Langton watercolour paper in a postcard pad, 300gsm.
Click on the underlined links above to go to the materials on the Jackson’s Art Supplies website.
This article makes the grammatical error “comprises of” three times.
The correct usage in each case is, simply, “comprises”.
“Comprise” means “consist of”, so “comprises of” would mean “consists of of” – clearly erroneous and a little ridiculous.
Please can we leave “comprises of” for use by estate agents, who aren’t, usually, literate enough to recognise their basic grammatical errors?
Hello S. Timpson.
It sounds like you read the whole long article!
I am sorry that bit of grammar irritated you. Was any of the information contained in the article of interest to you?
Thank You! Clear, concise and has drawn the curtains on a subject I have never before fully understood. Thank you!
Your article comprises of some very useful info!
PS: I’m not an estate agent.
Hi Dusty
Thank you so much for your praise. English lessons and more guides to painting media very much in the pipeline! 🙂
Lisa
Very helpful article. Thanks for writing!
Do you know what animal the gelatin is
derived from (eg bovine or non-bovine
sources)? Many thanks!
Hi Sarah , it is most commonly bovine gelatine.
Many thanks
Lisa
This is a great article, thank you. Many papers are still sized with gelatin (e.g. Saunders Waterford), but it seems that more and more paper manufacturers are using synthetic agents as sizing, such as PVA (poly vinyl acetate, which is also used as glue). Paper manufacturers claim that synthetic types of sizing are more environmentally friendly. But they are also much cheaper to manufacturer. Personally, I much prefer papers sized with gelatin. I find that papers sized with synthetic agents show more visible white specks when washes dry, and the paper quality seems to be much more variable from one sheet to the next.
I think it would have been helpful to state
which paper is manufactured without gelatin
sizing. Fabriano Artistico is one that doesn’t
use gelatin but I wonder if there are others.
Many of us would prefer not to use animal
products in our paintings.
Hi Francesca
Thank you for your comment. Our post on cruelty free art supplies has some information on this topic:
https://www.jacksonsart.com/blog/2017/03/08/art-supplies-animal-ingredients/
Many thanks
Lisa
Palease learn how to spell and
review your work before sending.
Unprofessional and shocking that
you’ve had to be told many times
and still have corrected the errors.
pathetic.
Thank you for your comment. There is a typo in your comment by the way, which you may wish to amend.
Many thanks
[…] about the wide range of different watercolour papers available and their qualities, see this post on the Jackson’s Blog, and our Visual Guide to Watercolour […]
Useful article, especially for a beginner. One additional
question – does watercolour paper have a “right” and “wrong”
side and if so, how can I tell which is which? Thanks!
Hi Angie,
Thanks for reading the article and I’m glad you found it of use! Technically, there is a right side to use…if the paper has a watermark then the watermark is on the side of the sheet intended for use. If there is no watermark it’s usually the side that has a less mechanical/regular surface texture to it. For hot press paper it’ll be the side that appears smoothest. But in reality it’s fine to work on either side of watercolour paper, whatever suits the artist best.
Lisa
Thanks Lisa.
Can one paint on soaked and stretched watercolour paper
after it has been detached from the board? Or do you always
have to paint on it while it is gummed or stapled to the
board?
Hi Pauline.
Good question! To get the benefit of using stretched watercolour paper you need to paint on it while it is stretched on the board. The soaking has swelled it and the stretching holds it at that size. Removing it and then painting on it would be like painting on un-stretched paper.
I hope that helps!
What causes black spots on watercolour paper where the
paper is newly purchased sheets?
Hi,
I’m really sorry but I haven’t heard this happening before. Has anyone else?
Did you buy these from Jackson’s Art Supplies?
Sorry to hear about the trouble you are having!
Lisa
Hi,
I thought this was a great article until I got to the paper
stretching. I used to use gummed tape for stretching
paper and found that it is very messy and difficult to get
off. Also if it is on a board you can’t really reuse it easily. I
have since switched to using 1/2 inch gater board,
stretching and stapling wet paper, than after it is dry,
masking off painting area with painters tape. The
complete painting can easily be removed and the board
can be reused many many times.
[…] choice, and the brand I recommend to my students. If you wish to learn more about watercolor paper, here is an excellent article about how it is […]
When holding Saunders Waterford paper up to the light, is
the watermark readable from the right side or the underside?
i have just purchased some Imperial sheets and the ‘right’
side appears to have a mesh texture!
Hi Margaret,
The side where the watermark is legible is the ‘right’ side. Is the paper you have bought cold pressed (NOT) texture?
Many thanks
Lisa
Hello, thank you for your post that is really really interesting.
I would like to know which kind of gelatin can be used to
make some watercolour sheet. Might you help me? thank
you in advance!
Hi Ilaria,
Thank you for reading and your question. If you are resizing or sizing unsized paper that has already been made, immerse the paper in a weak gelatin solution. We sell gelatin in capsules and sheets – https://www.jacksonsart.com/search/?q=gelatin – 1/2 ounce or less to a gallon of water. How much gelatin you need will vary depending on so many factors – but in every situation try to use the minimum to begin with and add if you need more.
Another way of adding a layer of resistance to your watercolour paper is to apply Lift Aid or Lifting Preparation – this too will stop watercolour paint from sinking too far into the absorbency of under-sized watercolour paper.
Hope this helps.
Lisa
Loved reading this article. So much valuable
information was clearly provided. I do have
one additional question however; does
watercolor paper have an expiration date? I
recently bought some vintage art supplies
from an estate sale that included some old
arches papers. I was so excited to use them,
but was told they were no good for
watercolor anymore. Can you help to clarify
my dilemma? Thanks so much!
Hi Sherri
I have had a very interesting conversation with our friends at a paper supplier and they have confirmed what I suspected – that if the paper is stored well then it will not have an expiration date – or at least, it will have one that will last for many hundreds of years.
What will cause paper the deteriorate is acidity, big fluctuations in temperature and/or humidity.
Good watercolour paper contains fungicides, pesticides and calcium carbonate buffers to help prolong its life and make it more robust against some of the factors that may cause it to deteriorate. However if the paper is exposed to acid conditions it will suffer. For example if it is back with greyboard (which is not pH neutral) or left outside in an urban area where there is a lot of motor fumes then the paper will suffer. The sizing may start to break down and it may start to visibly yellow. If it is left in a humid environment the paper will absorb some of this moisture, along with any of the impurities found within that moisture, some of which may consist of acidic properties that would cause the paper harm.
In order to prevent these things from happening always store watercolour paper away from acidic fumes, strong light or places that may get very humid. When framing watercolour paper always use pH neutral or acid free mountboard. Display work away from direct sunlight and if possible use museum grade glass to protect the paper (and paint) from harmful UV light rays.
Then your watercolour paper will perform and appear how it should for many hundreds of years!
Hope this helps
Lisa
Why can’t I buy pre-stretches paper
ready to paint. This stretching is a pain
and pretty much any watercolour paper
that needs stretching is in my opinion a
process that is not completed by the
manufacturer. Is this idea feasible?
Hi James,
Thanks for your question. The answer to your question is logistics, in a nutshell. Stretched paper would need to be sent affixed to either a board or a frame,and the cost of doing this I imagine is prohibitive. The reason why paper needs to be stretched prior to painting is because the paper expands and warps as it absorbs water – so stretching keeps the paper sufficiently taut to stop the cockling/buckling/warping from happening. If you would like to avoid the process of stretching paper, you might like to try watercolour blocks if you havent already – pads of paper that are glued on all 4 sides so will not buckle when you paint on the top sheet. Once you are done painting you simply ‘slice’ the top sheet off – https://www.jacksonsart.com/surface/paper-card/blocks
Another option would be watercolour boards – paper that has been mounted on to board to avoid buckling. https://www.jacksonsart.com/surface/paper-card/paper-boards
Many thanks
Lisa
Thank you for the article. I am wondering
if there is a particular type of watercolor
paper that would work to wet and stretch
onto a shaped mold? This would be
something like an embossed paper
without having to use a press. Ideally it
would be able to shrink down when dried
to a good level of detail in the mold. Then I
would paint on it after it is shaped.
Thanks for the help!
Dear Christy
This is a very specialist question and not something I have done myself, but I will endeavour to help!
First of all, I wonder if it is worth making your own paper pulp rather than using a ready made sheet of paper, and moulding it around your mold, and letting it dry? Paper pulp would be more malleable than something that has already been formed into a sheet of paper, as sheets of paper have effectively already been ‘molded’, just into flat sheets. This excerpt and the book it refers to might help, although you will also need to add some size to the paper so that when you paint on to it the paint isn’t just sucked up by the very absorbent paper – http://www.peachpit.com/articles/article.aspx?p=1412111&seqNum=3 – gelatin or gum arabic could help with that.
or
You could try following these instructions – https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Paper-Pulp – but use watercolour paper instead of newsprint; that way there will be sizing already in the paper. When it’s at the drying stage that’s then you fit the paper around your mold.
My instincts tell me this is the best way but it does really depend on how shapely your mold is! If it is just some raised lettering you might be able to soak a sheet of paper and lay it on to the lettering and leave it to dry on there – although you will need something to apply pressure on the other side of the paper, otherwise it will just shrink away from the mold. Try 100% linen or cotton papers as the fibres will be longer and more elastic than cellulose papers.
Hope this is helpful, and good luck! Let us know how it goes.
Many thanks
Lisa
Dear Lisa,
thank you for the article. Your knowledge
about these issues is really usefull for me.
I wonder if you have and if you can kindly
send me a recipe or protocol to make of
high quality watercolor paper, mould-
made. I Will very much appreciate if you
can provide me the exact proportions of
you protocol components. Thanks in
advance.
Hi Alejandro,
I am not very experienced in this field, however, I know an expert so am in the process of asking for his insights. Will let you know asap!
Many thanks
Lisa
Hi Lisa, you need to persuade Mr. Daler or
Mr. Rowney that their Langton “Prestige”
paper deserves to be produced in 300 lb in
all formats.
Wonderful paper being denied it’s full
repertoire!
Hi Jeff
I’ll see what I can do!!
What is it you like in particular about the Prestige? Have you tried any other 300lb weight cotton papers? I hope something here might take your fancy… https://www.jacksonsart.com/search/?q=300lb+100%25+cotton
Let me know what you think
Best wishes
Lisa
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for the article. Is internally sized
paper also externally sized as well, or
can it be one, the other, or both?
Hi Allie,
I’m afraid it varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, some are just internally, some just externally, and some are both.
Many thanks
Lisa
[…] paint has dried completely. You can facilitate this by using watercolor paper that is sealed with sizing. Pigments are blocked from sinking into and dispersing in the cotton pulp of the paper when it’s […]
Reply to Geoff Langley re Daler Rowney
Prestige paper. I agree. They make 200lb
in a spiral pad which I like. No
stretching, no need to detach. I use
either bulldog clips or tape to keep the
paper flat while painting. The sheet
bends on the edge a little but it doesn’t
cockle while painting.
Hi there I was hoping you could help
answer a question I’ve been having
trouble finding the answer to. I’ve been
using Strathmore 140lb cold press paper
for my watercolor paintings and every
time I reach the outer 3-4 inches of the
paper it act as if there’s a water repellent
on it. The middle of the sheet works
beautifully but the outer sides do not
absorb water and it feels as if I’m trying
to paint over a wax coating or
something. I bought a 3 pack of pads for
this paper and the same thing happens
on all of them. Do you know why this
could be?
Hi Priya,
My colleague will be in touch about this issue.
Best wishes
Lisa
Hi
I’m sorry if this question has already
been asked in the Q&A part. Having read
the article, I wanted to ask specifically
about working with illumination of hot
pressed blocks of paper. I like to work on
darker coloured papers. What I wanted
to know was, would it be possible to
stain the hot presses paper on a block
with black ink and then apply
illumination to this along with other
colours? Or would this affect the
integrity of the paper (it’s ability to hold
“too much”)? I hope that makes sense!
Thank you
Hi!
Thanks for your question. When you say illumination, are you referring to applying gold leaf? Or another process?
Many thanks
Lisa
Hi Lisa,
I have looked into ways to repurpose/recycle
my watercolour paintings (ones that haven’t
turned out so good) and have seen the
method of soaking and gently wiping off the
pigment. I am wondering if you could offer
any advice on whether I can use the regular
paper making technique (cutting up soaked
and scrubbed watercolour paper, soaking in
boiling water overnight, blending with water
to create pulp, and using mould and deckle
method). Given I am using artists grade
watercolour paper already, I’m assuming I
won’t need to add any other binders in order
for it to turn out well. I’m hoping your
knowledge of paper can help me!
Thank you!
Hi Elena
Yours is a really interesting question! Thank you. Although I haven’t tried this myself I think you are right in your assumptions, that you won’t need any additional binding. Immersing the re-pulped paper may dilute some of the sizing of the paper though, which means that your newly made paper might be more absorbent than the watercolour paper your started out with. You could try adding a few drops of gum arabic to the waterbath to counteract this if you wish, or externally sizing once the paper is made, i.e., applying gum arabic to the paper once you’ve made it.
Hope this helps!
Many thanks
Lisa
Very helpful article. Thank you
Hi Lisa,
An interesting article I thought, thank you.
Just one point, about the “How to stretch
watercolour paper using Gummed Brown
Paper Tape”, water and MDF are not good
partners, the MDF won’t last more than a
few such exposures unless it is somehow
waterproofed. Perhaps a plywood sheet
would be more appropriate?
Hi David, Thank you so much for your comment. You’re absolutely right, plywood would be longer lasting and less absorbent. I shall change the information!
Very best wishes
Lisa
I am sujit, artist from india, l am
planning to start making
handmade paper this QxA would
help me a lot.
Thanks
That’s great, thank you!
[…] Jackson Art: Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Watercolor Paper […]
Two qualities of a watercolour paper
which I think are dependent on the
sizing are first the ability to lay one
wash over another without the second
lifting or smudging the first, and
secondly, the ability to lift colour locally
fir effect after it has dried.
Are there papers which allow. both of
those techniques or are they
incompatible?
Hi Duncan,
Rather than rely on the paper to allow you to do these, I would invest in a medium called lifting preparation (https://www.jacksonsart.com/winsor-newton-watercolour-medium-75ml-lifting-preparation ). A coat of this on paper prior to working will make it easier to lift dried colour during the painting process.
The second medium you might be interested in is Aqua Fix – https://www.jacksonsart.com/schmincke-aqua-watercolour-fixative-60ml This will fix under-layers in place so that will you paint over the top they will not lift or smudge.
Hope this helps,
Many thanks
Lisa
Thank you for this great, informative article!
Can you use PVA size to externally size
handmade paper intended for watercolors?
Or is it best to stick with gelatin or wheat
startch?
Hi Ash,
Thank you for the question. I need to double check the answer to this so will respond in due course.
Thank you for your patience.
Best wishes
Lisa
Dear Ash,
The size used for watercolour paper needs to have a degree of water solubility – so that it still allows for the paint to adhere to the surface of the paper. PVA size may form too impenetrable a layer for watercolour – and so the paint may not adhere and will wipe off. Unlike oils or acrylic, there is not enough adhesive qualities in the paint itself to stick to a solid layer of acrylic. You could try diluting the PVA to make it semi-permeable but it’s not something we have tried ourselves so we’re unsure of whether it would work.
Sorry we cannot be of more help.
Best wishes
Lisa
Thank you very, very much for the
reply & for your help!
Hi Lisa!
I’m wondering if you can use PVA Size
instead of gelatin on handmade watercolor
paper. What do you think?
Hi Ashley,
Thank you for your question. Can you clarify – are you making your own paper, and are you asking about internal or external sizing?
Many thanks
Lisa
You answered my question above.
External sizing.
can u tell me which brand watercolor
paper is iInternally sized?
and which are both internally and
externally?
this is for Ukraine fundraiser so a paper
that takes all mediums for artists to create
many thanks
Hi Kat
All paper that is called ‘watercolour paper’ will be internally sized.
We have a more recent article with a big chart that shows which papers are externally sized.
EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT WATERCOLOUR PAPER