Gatorfoam Board is a strong, lightweight and waterproof material that makes both a great working surface (it is excellent for stretching watercolour paper) as well as a great artwork support for pastels, painting and other media. Gatorfoam is an extruded polystyrene foam board bonded between two layers of resin impregnated wood-fibre veneer. It is much stronger than standard foamboard, but it is about the same weight and can be cut to size at home.
Gatorfoam – Versatile Boards for Artists
Cutting to Size
At Jackson’s GatorFoam Board is available in two thicknesses: 5 mm and 10 mm. The 5 mm is available in sizes up to 60 x 60 cm and the 10 mm in sizes up to A2 (42 x 59.4 cm).
Similar to cutting framing supplies to size (acrylic ‘glass’ glazing or thin mdf for backing boards) Gatorfoam boards can be cut to size with a snap knife. The first step is to lightly cut along your straight edge ruler a few times to score a line before you put any pressure on it. This is important because the surface is so hard and smooth that a knife with pressure on it will slide around and not stay in place unless you have created a groove. The groove must be created with a very light touch. As soon as you have a groove you can put more pressure on the knife and when you have cut most of the way through you can snap the rest.
A Lightweight and Sturdy Working Surface
Stretching Watercolour Paper
One of the best strengths of Gatorfoam Board is stretching watercolour paper. It is completely waterproof. I soaked both thicknesses (5 mm and 10 mm) in water for over an hour without any change – no warping or surface de-laminating. For help with how to stretch watercolour paper read this earlier blog post Stretching Watercolour Paper for a Better Painting Experience.
Using gummed paper tape: tape adheres very well, better than on wood panels, it does not fail to completely stick like sometimes happens on wood boards. The finished, dried painting must be removed without cutting the Gatorfoam Board, so a shallow angle of a snap knife in the little air pocket line around the edge of the paper is best. After you have removed the finished painting the tape removes cleanly after soaking with water for a minute. Using tape will prolong the life of the gatorboard compared to stapling.
Using staples: staples poke through to the back on the 5 mm a wee bit, but are not a problem with the thicker 10 mm board. The surface is very easy to get regular office staples into, so saves your wrists compared to wood. They remove easily with a staple remover and the same area can be stapled again and again. There must be a paper on the surface when stapling, staples directly into the surface without a paper to staple will crush that spot (I don’t know why you would ever need to do that, though).
The board wipes clean after painting, though staining colours will leave a slight colouration. You can stretch on both sides at the same time. For very large sheets of paper the 10 mm thick board may be a better choice than the 5 mm to avoid any warping, but the 5 mm is plenty strong up to the quarter sheets that I tested.
Use as a Drawing Board
The 10 mm Gatorfoam Board’s hard smooth surface means it can be used as a drawing board and its light weight means it’s great for plein air. The rigid surface is resistant to dents and handles repeated application and removal of tape.
Useful in Framing
Gatorfoam Board makes a great backing board for framing artwork as it is stiff yet lightweight. Artwork created on Gatorfoam or mounted to it it easier to frame because the paper is completely flat without any waves in it.
A Lightweight and Rigid Artwork Support
The versatility of this uniquely lightweight and sturdy board includes using it as a painting surface for all media.
Gatorfoam Board is nearly acid-free and will not become more acidic over time. It is less acidic than hardboard. Many suppliers consider it to be archival and many have created artists surfaces by mounting pastel paper and canvas to Gatorfoam Board.
Coating with Grounds for Pastel, Charcoal and Graphite
Applying a pastel ground directly to Gatorfoam creates a rigid board that is virtually weightless and easy to transport.
Jackson’s stock a selection of grounds for you to create your ideal pastel painting surface:
- Art Spectrum Colourfix Pastel Primers – 17 colours with a fine tooth
- Golden Acrylic Ground for Pastels – a slightly sandy texture, can be tinted with a little watercolour or acrylic colour to any colour you choose
- Golden Light Moulding Paste – a surface like cold press (NOT) watercolour paper
- Golden Acrylic Gesso in White or Black – a very fine surface
- Golden Fibre Paste – creates a surface like rough watercolour paper if smoothed with a wet palette knife or more like sandpaper if not smoothed
- Golden Fine Pumice Gel – a fine surface that can be tinted with a few drop of watercolour or acrylic colour to any colour you choose
Pastel Paper Surface
Adhering your favourite pastel paper to a Gatorfoam Board provides a lovely rigid surface and prevents paper denting. It also makes it easier to frame.
I tried two types of adhesive to attach the paper to the board. I found that with spray adhesive I had to give it a thorough coating or after the glue was dry the paper would peel off. I sprayed on the board rather than the paper and found I also needed to pay particular attention to saturating the corners of the board with the adhesive. I also tested using acrylic matt medium which worked very well. I found that letting the acrylic medium set up for a few minutes on the board before I applied the paper, applying it from the centre outward and smoothing air bubbles and then laying it paper downward with a weight on top worked very well. After both types of adhesive I laid the paper face down and trimmed the paper overlap to the edge of the board with a snap knife. Be sure to only use acrylic mediums as adhesives with pastel papers that can take water, as even just wetting from behind will cause glued grit and colour to dislodge.
Coating with Grounds for Watercolour Painting
The brush-on watercolour grounds require that you apply a sealant first, Jackson’s Fluid Matt Medium works well. Jackson’s stock a selection of possible watercolour grounds for you to choose from:
- Golden Absorbent Ground
- Schmincke Aqua Watercolour Primer, in Coarse and Fine
- Daniel Smith Watercolour Ground, in four colours
- QoR Watercolour Grounds, in three textures
Painting With Oil Colour
You can adhere canvas to Gatorfoam Board just as you would with MDF, using Acrylic Soft Gel or Acid-free PVA.
It can also be painted on directly with oil colour but only if you completely seal the surface as well as the exposed foam sides to prevent any solvent from touching the board. I did this by giving the surface and sides two coats of acrylic matt medium and then three coats of acrylic gesso primer. I used Golden Sandable Hard Gesso which is lovely but can only be used on rigid surfaces like this, not on stretched canvas. I tried it with just two coats of acrylic medium and no gesso and the solvent penetrated. On the larger sheets you may need to prime both sides if you find that the board bows.
Careful with the Corners
Gatorfoam Board has one weakness: it is vulnerable to dropping on the corners. I tested this and a short drop directly on the corner on a table caused no harm. But when I dropped it directly onto the corner from a greater height onto a concrete floor the corner crushed. As I increased the height from which I dropped the board the crush injury was increased until dropping from 2m caused the corner to crush in by 5 mm.
The edges are not particularly fragile, except that the exposed foam doesn’t like solvents and must be primed, see above in the oil painting section.
If you are using it as a board to stretch watercolour paper, it is durable for years for most people, it isn’t damaged from normal dropping, only if you drop it directly on its corner onto a hard surface.
If you are using it as an artwork support – the artwork is meant to be framed when you are finished and that will protect the corners.
Further Reading
Artist Review of Grafix Dura-lar Gummed Pads
Synthetic Paper for Watercolour and Mixed Media
Lightfast Black Surface: Stonehenge Aqua Black Paper
Shop Gatorfoam on jacksonsart.com
What a concise, well put together review, thank you, the images were extremely useful too.
One question, – what can be used to attach canvas to the board? I have only used stretched canvas and wonder what would be best for such a heavyweight surface.
Thank you Alison for your kind words. My aim in my product information articles is to be thorough, concise and clear, glad you liked it.
In trying to be concise I didn’t include the adhesives for the canvas, but since it wasn’t clear I have now gone back and added them.
You apply your adhesive to the board, Gator or mdf, and then lay on your piece of canvas rubbing out any air bubbles, then lay canvas facing down with a weight on top to dry. Finally you trim the canvas to the edge of the board. The most often used adhesives are Acrylic Soft Gel or Acid-free PVA.
I hope that helps.
Hello,
Thanks for this review.
I was wondering how to stretch watercolour paper using this board- I haven’t tried this before. Would you soak the paper first and then attach it to the board? What would be the best sort of tape to use?
Thanks,
Fatima
Hi Fatima
I have written about how to stretch watercolour paper in this earlier blog post Stretching Watercolour Paper for a Better Painting Experience.
I have now added this info to the Gator board article.
Is there any way of protecting the edges and corners?
Hi Claire
If you are using it as a board to stretch watercolour paper, it is durable for years for most people, it isn’t damaged from normal dropping, only if you drop it directly on its corner onto a hard surface.
If you are using it as an artwork support – the artwork is meant to be framed when you are finished and that will protect the corners.
The edges are not particularly fragile, the exposed foam doesn’t like solvents and must be primed.
I have tried using your boards with staples for stretching watercolour paper and it does not work. The staples do not hold properly because the surface is too thin compared to the Gatorboard that artists use in the USA. I don’t want to use gummed tape – the whole point is to get away from that.
Hi Andrew
I tried stretching quarter sheets of 140lb Bockingford watercolour paper on both the 5mm and 10mm gator boards. I used regular office staples and stapler. Both thicknesses of board held well. The 5mm was too thin because the staples poked through, but the paper held.
I am unhappy to hear that yours didn’t hold. What size paper did you use? Which size board did you use?
Hi Julie, and thank you very much for a great, informative article!
I’m wondering if I can use Golden Gac 100 or Golden Matte medium to glue canvas/linen to the gator foam boards? If not, can you please recommend a brand you store of PVA/Acrylic Soft Gel, since the links you provided appears to be broken now.
Hi Eirik,
Here is the link to Golden’s Soft Gels, they would provide a bit more structure than the Golden Matte Medium and therefore it will be easier to use when gluing canvas to Gator Foam: https://www.jacksonsart.com/search/?q=golden+soft+gel
I paint in a heavy, distressed, textural style, which means
the surface takes some physical punishment! MDF has
been a very resilient substrate for this, but problem is its
weight which adds up expense when mailing the original.
Now I’m using Gatorfoam board, and its EXACTLY what
I’ve been looking for … solved all my problems. No
warping, keeps its surface tension, and yet very
lightweight. Definately recommended!
Hi Chris
That’s great to hear!
I have found the Gator board from Jackson’s to be very resilient and tough and I use it for many things as well.
Thanks for letting us know!
Have you tried cutting this board
with a laser? I would be concerned
about the polystrene centre, however
you can cut polystrene with a “hot
wire” so maybe it would work ?
Hi Alan
I don’t have access to a laser cutter. And I’m not familiar with the properties of a laser with polystyrene foam. If you do find out please let us know.
I can honestly say this company and that backup service is
absolutely brilliant they will definitely get more orders from
me
Thanks Dave!
Hi…I have 5 x 1m x 1.20m frames that has perfect
gator boards in..I would like to use it yo painti directly
on them..how will I prime them for acrylic paint
Regards
Lucia
Hi Lucia.
You can paint directly on the boards with acrylic paint. They are white and smooth and work well. If you would like a more textured surface or a more absorbent surface you can coat them with acrylic primer/gesso.
I just ordered a few of these boards. My idea is to use pva
glue to paste canvas onto the gatorboard surface. I like the
idea of painting on canvas but without the “spring” effect,
with the benefit of a support that is super light, strong and
easy to cut at home with just a steel ruler and a hobby
knife.
Hi Andrea
Sounds like a great plan!
Let us know how it works for you?
Sure… if I remember! My memory is much worse
than my painting skills
I would like to use Gatorboard 122x195cm (5mm) as an artwork display. Will it sag at this
height? Can I glue wooden (or something else) strenghtening batons to back?
Hi Elspeth
We don’t sell it at that size, I’ve never tried flexing it at that size. At A3 it is as rigid as glass, doesn’t bend at all.
It probably won’t sag, but it is brittle when dropped. Hope that helps.
H Julie,,
I use a mix of soft pastel chalk and watercolor. Can I use
that directly on gator foam board? And is the gator foam
board vegan, so without any animal ingredients, animal
testing or animal products used during the process? (I
know this question might sound strange, but there also is
animal gelatin in most watercolor paper for example.)
Thank you!
Hi Maria
I haven’t been able to find out if the Gatorfoam board is made with gelatin. But since it is coated with resin, not sized for watercolour, I think it might not have gelatin. It is probable that is is animal-free, but I am not sure.
It is very smooth, it is not suitable for use as a surface without adding some sort of ground – gluing paper to it or painting a pastel ground onto it.
I hope that helps.
Thank you Julie 🙂
with regard to stapling your watercolour onto the board for
stretching purposes. doesn’t the action of pushing the
stapler together crush the edges of the gator board? maybe
you’re using a stapler that doesn’t require the two bits of it
pushing together?
Hi Yvonne
If you use a staple gun then it won’t crush the edges.
Many thanks
Lisa
I have heard alot of negative comments about using
gummed paper tape. Can you use plain old blue
painters tape with these boards?
Hi DeAnne
You can use painters tape on the boards…what negative comments have you heard about using gum tape?
Many thanks
Lisa
Hi Julie,
I am painting with oils on unstretched
linen canvas. I wonder whether it’s a good
idea to mount the painted canvas on
gatorboard and then frame it..60cm x 60
cm..
I am concerned that the adhesive might
ruin the painting…what is your advice?
Thank you,
Chrtsanthi
Hi Chrysanthi
First of all, have you sized and primed your canvas? If you have then the size (rabbit skin glue or acrylic medium) and primer (oil or acrylic primer or gesso) will provide a barrier between the glue and your painting and so your painting will be safe. However if longevity is a concern to you then you must use a pH neutral adhesive to glue your canvas to the board. Golden’s Soft Gel Gloss would be a great adhesive for this purpose. If you used a cheap PVA the acid in the glue may cause both the canvas and the gator board to deteriorate over time (this means, less resistant to changes in temperature light or humidity, which could lead to yellowing/cracking/flaking etc)
Many thanks
Lisa
What is the best way to join gator boards
to make larger boards? I am keen to try
gator board as a firmer alternative to
foam board to lace mount textile
artworks. The challenges I have with
foam board is that special polystyrene
glues are expensive and in my
experience not effective unless join is
also taped with heavy duty rhino tape
front and back which is only suitable for
works in heavy fabric grounds. The ridge
is visible under silk grounds. Taping just
the back of the glued join is not sturdy. I
welcome your guidance so that I can try
what sounds like a superior product.
Many thanks Cary
Hi Cary-Ann
If I’m imagining your set-up properly – the only solution I can see is to tape the joins but then cover the whole front with a large sheet of paper using double-sided tape, so you would have one smooth surface. If it is good drawing paper it should be thick enough to be smooth across the tape ridges. We have rolls of drawing paper if the structure will be larger than an A1 or a 20x30inch sheet.
Hope that helps.
Hi Julie, I’m thinking of using gator foam
board for attaching to a tripod to make a
watercolour easel for en Plein air and also at
home. Do you sell the easel mount to attach
board to tripod. Also would you suggest
using Epoxy glue to attach camera tripod
mounting bracket to gator board?
I know a lot of watercolour artists use
camera tripods as easels in the USA and
Europe and boards and panel holders are
more common there. It would be great to be
able to order a quarter sheet or half sheet
size of gator board with the bracket already
attached!
Hi Guy
We may be getting in a tripod bracket that can be attached with screws to panels.
Unfortunately, I don’t think we will be stocking a gatorboard with a bracket already attached.
Technically, epoxy should work well for attaching metal to paper, but since I haven’t tried it I can’t say for sure. If you do try it please come back and let me know how it went.
Thank you for your great information.
I’ve glued a large piece of primed linen
to gator board in the past and had the
edges ripple after it’s dried, resulting in
gaps between the linen and the board.
I’ve evenly weighted the board as it dries
with several sheets of heavy plywood
placed overtop. And still this happened.
Do you have a suggestions how to get
the edges to dry evenly. Thanks much.
Hi Laura
It sounds like the linen wasn’t smoothed down all the way maybe. The edges are the most important part to make sure are adhered. So using a roller or your hands you need to rub it firmly all the way around. Then if it is weighted well enough it should dry fine.
Un-primed might shrink and get wavy but primed should work well.
Two other things that might be the problem – are you using enough adhesive, especially near the sides and does the linen extend past the board so it can be trimmed later?
I inspect the boards after I have trimmed them and sometimes there is a gap where I can pull the canvas up a bit and I just poke a brush with adhesive in the small gap and re-clamp it there. It usually was an area with not enough glue the first time.
I hope that is helpful.
Hi All. I’ve never done this before, but
have read all your comments &
frustrations etc regarding stretching
watercolour paper. Hope I do this
message ok.
I have a real ‘freeze’ about stretching
watercolour paper. So, I always buy
Arches Block papers, ( costing me a
fortune). I find that they will still wave or
buckle, so,
before painting, I wet each sheet very
gently & carefully, (so as not to interfere
with sizing), using a hake, still on it’s
original block. I then tape the page
down (still on it’s original block/pad),
using gummed tape. Next, I put large
bulldog clips all around the edge of the
pad along the tape, all placed together
as closely as possible, & then leave it to
dry. I find this works well. Anyone tried
this?
Hi Hilary
Yes, I find blocks are only half-stretched. They help some, if you don’t paint with much water. I find they don’t flatten back afterwards.
Painting on a properly stretched sheet of paper is a real treat. It’s taut like a drum and there is no buckling. There can’t be because you nail down the paper when it is at its most swollen with water. And evenly swollen. So when it gets wet again, no part can get any larger, because you have stretched it to its fullest size.
If you’d like to give it a try, our article is pretty straightforward.
STRETCHING WATERCOLOUR PAPER FOR A BETTER PAINTING EXPERIENCE
Hello Julie
I Any ideas what adhesives work with gator board? I’m joining 3 x A1 boards
together to make a large lightweight
drawing board. I want to glue timber
battens in one side. Thanks for your
excellent review. Good warning about
the corners being fragile.
Hi Katya
Glad it was helpful.
I haven’t tried it. I did a quick search and found two options. Butt up the edges, tape the back and bend open the front to squeeze in glue.
The two glues mentioned were hot glue or Elastomeric Adhesive Caulk (White Lightning).
It looks like you will have to experiment a bit. If you think of it, come back and let me know what worked?
Hi,
I would like to mount acrylic paintings on
watercolour paper (300 gsm – painted with
acrylic) to foamboard to frame. Is that
advised? What adhesive would work best
for that situation? I have Golden Regular
Gel Matte, but is that too heavy? Also,
what is the difference between “Gatorfoam
” board and regular foamboard (You sell
Union and Crescent brand foam boards)?
One last question, can you mount Bristol
paper (220 gsm) to foam board?
Thank you for this very helpful article!
Gatorboard is a very sturdy foamboard. It is the same light-ness as foam board but paper on both sized is impregnated with resin and it feels as solid as wood veneer. It is not at all bendable like foam board.
You can mount paper on canvas to it with acrylic soft gel or pva glue. the key is to get an even layer on the board, not too thin cos some will absorb into the paper, then apply the paper centre outwards and rub out all the air bubbles toward the sides. Then let it dry under weight or pressure from clamps.
This blog article may help:
Making a Canvas Panel It will be very similar to mounting paper.
Julie, I’ve been experimenting with gator
board as a painting support for oil media
as well as aqueous media. Do you
recommend sanding the surface of the
veneer (for a better bond) before
applying matt medium and gesso? Or,
can you apply both straight onto the
surface without the need for sanding or
abrading? Thank you.
There is no need to sand the surface first.