Granulation in watercolours is where un-even pigment becomes visible on the page, it is often used by watercolourists to add texture. This article explains what causes granulation, how to increase it, what it can be used for and how to use a spray to create a similar effect with non-granulating colours.
The Effect of Granulation in Watercolours
There is always a lot of discussion around granulation in watercolour: all watercolour artists know that some colours have a greater tendency to naturally granulate than others. But not all of them know what causes granulation and how it can be used in paintings.
Granulation is the visibly clear appearance of pigment particles in an uneven texture on the paper. Sounds complicated? Simply put, the nature of this phenomenon lies in the name itself: according to the dictionary, granulation is the formation of grains of a substance. In the case of watercolours, this substance is a pigment, and certain pigments tend to granulate, i.e. to form small dots and/or groups of flakes that are visually noticeable on paper.
Before explaining the causes and specific applications of granulation in watercolour paintings, it is worth explaining the term “flocculation” which is associated with granulation. There is much debate among watercolourists about whether the two processes are actually different.
One theory, supported by chemists, states that granulation is the appearance of visible particles of pigment on paper due to the uneven depositing of the sediment, whereas flocculation is the mutual attraction of small particles of pigment into groups that creates patterns on the paper. This would make the two fundamentally different because of the process that causes them.
According to another theory, which also has many supporters, flocculation is a subspecies of granulation, just one of its variants. Anyway, there are those who say that it is not important because the main thing is not what this process is called, but that applying certain paints to paper creates a granulated texture.
What Causes Granulation in Watercolours?
There are three important factors.
1. The Nature of the Pigment
The most important factor in the formation of granulation in watercolour is the paint’s pigment. There are groups of pigments that have a natural tendency to granulate because they are heavier.
These are:
Ultramarines
Cobalts (including Ceruleans)
Earth tones
Blacks
[Editor’s note: Most earth pigments are now made with synthetic rather than natural pigments. Synthetic iron oxides, like Raw Sienna and Burnt Umber, granulate differently between brands with some granulating heavily and others hardly granulating at all. Many genuine mineral pigments produce dramatic granulating effects due to their larger pigment particle size.
Ultramarine blue, PB29, is usually a granulating pigment but some versions are very finely milled which reduces granulation. Many professional watercolour manufacturers offer both French Ultramarine and Ultramarine Blue. Of the two, French Ultramarine granulates more readily. Granulation of Ultramarine Pink varies greatly across brands.
Of the black pigments, Ivory Black and Mars Black usually granulate. Lamp Black generally does not. It’s interesting to note that naturally granulating red pigments are rare.]
2. Quantity and Quality of Water
As a rule, granulation is more visible and clear when there is a lot of water both on the paper and mixed with the paint itself. So if you would like to increase granulation, use more water.
Also, one of the factors in creating granulation is the quality of the water you use. If you use hard water, which has more minerals in it, the granulation will be more pronounced than if you used distilled or soft water.
3. Paper Texture
Granulating pigment particles are heavier and coarser than finer ground, even paint pigments. Because of this, they sink into the “holes” or dimples in the texture of the watercolour paper and from this create the uneven paint layer.
So, granulation is more likely to be noticeable on cold pressed and rough textured paper than on a paper without much texture and with less dimples, such as hot pressed. Although, granulation is still possible on smooth paper it may just be less extreme.
Granulation in Practice
All of the above is only theoretical knowledge, which is useful, but it is useless if it is not quite clear when granulation effects will be appropriate.
- Most watercolourists use granulating paints or sprays in these cases:
- To vary textures (in the case of an even wash that you might want to make more interesting)
- Landscapes and everything in them (from mountainsides to describing grass, forests and water)
- Textures seen in ordinary life (rust, moss, plaster, concrete, bricks, rough surfaces, etc.)
- Abstraction (additional texture can make for more interesting stains)
- Grisaille, where you use shades of grey or another neutral greyish colour to form the whole picture (a painting that uses one colour can look more interesting if it includes granulation)
- Dark areas next to light ones (most dark paints granulate and granulation can work as a way of creating additional contrast in tone)
- To describe background elements like trees (and everything that we naturally see as blurred or like a collection of dots)
Creating a Granulation Effect in Watercolours Using a Spray
Schmincke has a special spray that can get non-granulating watercolour paints to create a granulation effect called AQUA granulation spray.
I was given an explanation of how the granulation spray works by Schmincke’s laboratory:
“Our 50 737 AQUA granulation spray only imitates the visual effect of granulation. There is no way – without damaging the colour violently – to make a non-granulating colour granulate. It is a pigment property like lightfastness that you can’t change in any direction. The only way to imitate the granulation is to leave some small spots free from colour: the medium pushes the pigment particles away by falling on the wet colour and the resulting effect gives a granulating structure to the colour layer, while the mechanism is of course completely different.”
They also let me know that the spray should be applied to the paper from a distance of at least 20-30 cms. This is really important as if you spray it closer, it could cause the formation of a round spot in the centre of where you sprayed or an unwanted layering of paint.
The picture shows the same paint on the left side of the picture with an even wash and on the right with the spray applied. Of course, natural granulation looks even more spectacular, but in a situation where you want to create additional texture and an even more interesting wash with a non-granulating watercolour, this spray is really useful.
Further Reading
Review of Schmincke Granulation Spray
Anna Zadorozhnaya’s Review of Jackson’s Watercolours, Paper and Brushes
Anna Zadorozhnaya Paints a Watercolour Mountain Landscape
The History of Potter’s Pink (and Why It’s a Watercolourist’s Secret Weapon)
Shop Schmincke Aqua Watercolour Granulation Spray on jacksonsart.com
Shop Watercolour on jacksonsart.com
Very informative. Your blog opens up
new avenue’s of pigment application on
watercolor paper.
Thank you,
Stanley
Hi Stanley, thank you for letting us know, I’m glad you’ve found Anna’s article useful.
Very useful information which I’ll keep for reference. I’ll
experiment using the techniques and pigments described, thank
you.
Hi Janice, I’m glad you found it useful. I hope your experiments go well.
I love granulation in exercises but, to be
honest, in a finished work it looks cheap.
Like the paper is too thin and crumbles.
Hi Rita, that’s an interesting take on it, I guess as always it’s in the eye of the beholder.
Don’t forget you can also force
granulation using salt crystals
Hi Robin, thanks for sharing that tip.
Hi, very interesting but I’ve seen
paintings which have a much more
grainy effect which isn’t stipple painting.
Is there another form of spray or texture
effect to really make strong grain
effects?
Hi Neil, to create a really grainy effect you can use salt. The different sizes or fineness of the salt will affect the texture you produce, plus it’s really easy to experiment with at home.
Hi – Thank you for a really interesting article. I’ve also found that if I mix a granulating colour with non-granulating, then the mixture goes granulating, often with amazing multicolour dot effects. This is useful, for example, when I’m trying to draw brick buildings. Many thanks for your fascinating blog articles.
Thank you Jane, that is a great tip! Pigments are fascinating, aren’t they?
Glad to hear you are enjoying the articles. We will keep them coming!
Thanks Jane I’m not a watercolourist per se,
but I find I can get very similar results using
water, sprays, salt etc and colour powder
pigments from Cornelisson, can you let me
why using ready-mixed may be better for this
effect?
Hi Faye,
Thanks for your question, I’m not sure one approach is better than another, simply just another option. Granulating colours will granulate more uniformly, while using salt and sprays will tend to offer more unpredictable results, as will adding granulating mediums, which you can use in varying quanitities to control the extent of granulation.
Hope this helps
I found this really interesting
and useful as I’ve just started to
learn about granulation. Im still
not entirely sure though which
colours are granulation. I have
quite a few of your own brand
watercolours and would love to
know which ones are
granulation. Thank you
Hi Jules, I’m so glad you found this article useful! The most granulating colours in our artist watercolour range are Cerulean and Cobalt Blue. Ultramarine Blue Deep, Raw Sienna, Burnt Sienna, Burnt Umber, Raw Umber, Yellow Ochre, and Ivory Black are also granulating.
Thank you again for the really
informative article. It answered
lots of questions I have had in
my mind.
thank you Tegen for such nice explained
article about granulation. and i love your
blog articles they are helpful and a full of
tips. thank you all
To those who recommend using salt to
create granulation, I was warned not to
do so, as the salt particles sink into the
paper and continue working to degrade
the structure of the paper, making it
friable. So salt granulation shouldn’t be
used in work that you intend to sell.
Hi Anni
I had not heard of this before, so I asked 2 watercolour conservation experts. They both think the salt doesn’t pose a problem.
“I don’t believe salt would necessarily cause any issues for the work; sodium chloride has a pH of 7, which means it is fairly neutral. One thing to note – if you’re buying table salt, make sure it hasn’t been fortified with iodine, as that could cause unpredictable results.”
“As always, it’s all relative. A paper saturated with dissolved table salt would likely have problems in elevated humidity which encourages salt recrystallization accompanied by mechanical stresses. However, the amount of salt actually absorbed by the paper from localized sprinklings onto wet watercolors is not likely to be great. The fact that individual salt crystals remain to be brushed away indicates little actual dissolution.”
Hello, thank you so much for this
blogpost. I am a beginner and want to
know if the quality of the paint can
increase granulation. I use Faber Castell’s
watercolour, decent brushes and paint
mainly on Arches cold pressed 100%
cotton paint but almost all the colours I
love granulate and I’m starting to think it
is just me not knowing what I’m doing.
Would be so grateful if you could let me
know what your thoughts are?
Hi Elana
I asked a few watercolourists for their thoughts. None of us have used the paint you mention.
We think it could be that all watercolour pigment settles a little in the texture of the paper and maybe you are thinking that is granulation? Or perhaps the paint you are using does granulate more.