Linocut: Learn in a Weekend is a new book by Margate based linocut artist and printmaker, Nick Morley. Published by Skittledog (an imprint of Thames & Hudson Ltd.) the book guides you through the tools and materials you will need, and provides a number of projects to get you started. Below is a chapter from the book that outlines the various linocut carving techniques you can use to familiarise yourself with linocutting before you make a start.
Linocut: Learn in a Weekend – Linocut Carving Techniques
Text by Nick Morley | Photographs by Rita Platts
Carving lino can be very relaxing; some people find it almost addictive. Like any skill, it takes practice to build up your confidence. Before you tackle any of the projects I suggest you carve a test block to get used to the tools, and try out all the different techniques that follow. The projects each use one or more of these techniques. You can refer back to this section at any time if you need a reminder.
What You Will Need
• Permanent marker pen or acrylic paint
• Paper towel
Start by making a test block to experiment with carving a variety of marks and to get a feel for the different tools. You can use the example on page 21 as a guide but feel free to try out your own ideas. Don’t worry about making your marks look like a coherent design, think of it more like a sampler which you can refer back to. Once you have finished carving your test block, print it by following the instructions in the Printing section.
Before you start, colour in the surface of the block with the marker pen or brush some acrylic paint diluted with water onto the surface and then wipe it off with a paper towel. You want just enough to stain the surface, without leaving any bumps or ridges of paint. This stage is optional, but makes it easier to see your carved marks. The parts of the lino you remove are going to be white, assuming you are printing on white paper. Colouring the block helps your brain get used to this, as the parts you carve out will appear lighter than the uncut areas.
Linocut Carving Safety
The tools are sharp, so to avoid cutting yourself, always carve away from your hands and away from your body. You will need to hold the lino with your second hand, so make sure you are holding it to the side or behind your cutting tool. Place a non-slip mat under the block when you are carving to stop it moving around.
Holding the Tools
Hold the tool so the handle is in the centre of your palm. Your fingers should be fairly relaxed, with your first finger pointing straight down the shaft. Make sure the tool is the right way up, with the cutting edge pointing straight down.
The angle you hold the tool at will determine whether the cutting tip moves forward in a level way as you push on the tool, or moves up or down. By raising or lowering your wrist you can control this. Raise your wrist slightly to make a steeper angle and the tool will go deeper into the lino. Lower your wrist to make a shallower angle to bring the cutting tip back up towards the surface. In between you should find the exact angle at which the tool travels forward in a continuous line. This angle may vary between tools.

The exact angle you need to hold the tool will vary slightly depending on which tool you are using.
Two common things can happen here. If the tool goes too deep it can start to tear the lino, or even get stuck completely. If this happens, lower your wrist slightly to bring the cutting tip up. On the other hand, if the tool keeps skidding and you feel that you’re not in control, bring your wrist up slightly so the cutting tip goes down. These adjustments are subtle and take a little time to master, but it’s better to practise now so you can control your cutting when you do your first project.
You will find that you have to push harder with the larger tools, as you are removing more lino. Try to push the tool with your whole arm, using your body weight to generate the force. When you use the smaller tools or make shallower cuts, you need less force – a small movement of the wrist may be enough. Your cutting technique will develop over time, but do try to keep everything relaxed as much as possible … and remember to breathe!
Test Block Print Key
1. Varied widths of line made by different tools. Notice how the two ends of each line you carve are shaped by the tool. Top to bottom: 1 mm U, 3 mm U, 5 mm U, 1 mm V, large V (shallow cut), large V (deep cut).
2. Lines with a square end. Top to bottom: 3 mm U, 5 mm U, large V.
3. Curved lines. Top to bottom: 1 mm V, 1 mm U, 3 mm U.
4. Varied width line made with large V.
5. Circle made with 3 mm U.
6. Dots. Top to bottom: 1 mm U, 3 mm U, 5 mm U.
7. Semicircles made with 3 mm and 5 mm U. Triangles made with large V.
8. Stars made with large V.
9–10. Large V.
11. Large V carving with sideways and up-and-down motion.
12. Large U semicircles.
13. 1 mm U wavy lines.
14. Large V tapered lines.
15–17. 3 mm U.
18. 1 mm V.
19–21. 5 mm U.
Carving a straight line
Practise making straight, even lines of different lengths on your test block with each of your tools. An even width of line is best made with a U-shaped tool, with the size of tool determining the width. Use the large V-shaped tool to cut a variety of widths of line, including a very fine line.
Varied width of line
By varying the depth of the tool you can make the line wider or narrower. This is especially effective with the V-shaped tool. Raise and lower your wrist as you carve. Try a curved line by moving your wrist from side to side as well as up and down.
Making a line with a square end
Instead of lowering your wrist at the end of a line, stop the tool where you want the line to end, leaving the lino shaving attached to the block. Bring the cutting tip straight back about 2–3mm. Lift the cutting tip to bend the lino shaving up and over until it breaks off.
Carving a circle
To make a circle or a pronounced curve, rotate the block as you carve. This technique is easier with a U-shaped tool and without the non-slip mat. Lean into the tool and push the block against it with your other hand, being careful not to cut towards your fingers. Rotate the block as you cut, keeping your cutting hand steady.
Curved lines
Gentle curves can be made by moving your wrist or arm left and right as you cut forwards. More pronounced curves may require you to move your whole body. Try to keep your hand level as you move, so the cutting tip of the tool remains upright.
Little semicircles and triangles
To make a semicircle, hold the U-shaped tool at 45 degrees and stick it into the lino, then pull it back out halfway. Lift the tool to bend the piece of lino back on itself until it breaks off. Triangles can be made in the same way as semicircles, but using a large V-shaped tool.
Dots
You can make different-sized dots using each of the U-shaped tools. Hold the tool at 45 degrees and stick it into the lino a little way, then hold the tool steady while you rotate the block around it in a circle. The dots will not always be perfectly round, but with a little practice you can get them pretty close.
Stars
To make a star, carve inwards from the tip of each point of the star towards the centre using the large V-shaped tool. Hold the tool at a steep angle so the point goes down towards the centre of the star.
Text Copyright © 2023 Nick Morley
Photographs Copyright © 2023 Rita Platts
Linocut: Learn in a Weekend published by Skittledog (an imprint of Thames & Hudson Ltd.)
Further Reading
Linocut Printmaking for Beginners – What You Need to Get Started
Top Linocut Tips From Leading Printmakers
5 Recommended Pfeil Tools for Linocut
Linocut: Learn in a Weekend is available now at jacksonsart.com
Shop Printmaking on jacksonsart.com
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