Jackson’s bespoke frames are cut to your custom size for self-assembly. There are also ready-made frames available in a selection of standard sizes. The bespoke frames are simple to assemble and take just a couple of minutes. Here is a quick visual guide on how to assemble Jackson’s bespoke frames. Our How to Frame Artwork series covers the fundamentals of framing your artwork through clear, visual guides.
How to Assemble Jackson’s Bespoke Frames
When you unpack your frame there will be four lengths of moulding cut to your required size, an envelope of dovetail inserts, and any mounting and hanging accessories that you ordered. The bars are wrapped together tightly in cling film. Remove this carefully so as not to scratch the front of your frame.
First, arrange your bars face up and check that you ordered the right size for your artwork. You will then turn the bars over to assemble, so you will want the table or floor area that you are working on to be clean and smooth, to protect the front of your frame. It will be handy if your frame is on a moveable surface like paper or card. Then you can easily rotate it on the surface while you work on it, and it can also catch any small glue spill.
Assembling Your Jackson’s Bespoke Frames
To assemble your bespoke frame you will need a small hammer, a small amount of PVA glue, a medium-sized flat brush to apply it with, and a damp cloth to wipe the excess glue off of your frame.
Dovetails
Lay out your frame pieces face down and lay the dovetail connectors near each corner. Some frames come with one connector per corner, some with two, and some with three. You may have some short and some long ones for each corner, depending on the style of the frame. Notice that there is a flat end and a pointed end to each dovetail.
Glue and Dovetails
Brush PVA onto the facing mitred corners of the frame. Put the corner together so that the cut-out grooves align to form a hole, checking that the outside edges meet up perfectly at the corner. Holding the corner together steadily and very tightly, insert the dovetail piece, pointed end first, into the hole and push it as far as you can with your fingers. Then, still clamping the corner with your hand, gently tap in the dovetail with the small hammer until it is flush with the back of the frame. If you are using a large hammer, be very gentle, it doesn’t take much force and you don’t want to dent the wood.
Corners With Multiple Dovetails
If the style of frame has two or three holes in each corner, make sure you are using the correct length dovetail for the depth of the hole. In the corner that you’re working on, insert all the dovetails with your fingers and then start tapping them in. Start with the longest one first. Having the others in place will help support the corner when you start hammering. You will also need to support the frame carefully from underneath the inside edge while inserting the short dovetails. Because that area is floating it is hard to push or hammer against. You can try using a stack of mountboard or similar to offer support, but your fingers will probably work better.
Wiping Off Excess Glue
If you have laid out the frame on a sheet of paper or card, you can stay in the same position and rotate your paper around to move the next corner to you. When you have tapped the dovetail joiners into each corner, use the damp cloth to wipe away any glue that has squeezed out on the back and sides. You should have used enough glue that a little squeezes out, but not a lot. When you are done with all four corners, use the damp cloth to wipe away any glue that squeezed out on the front. Hold it at an angle to the light so that you can see that you have removed all the glue from all sides and there is no shine.
Do a final inspection by laying the frame face up and checking that it is flat and the mitre join lines are smooth across. If anything is uneven you can gently push the raised side of the mitre towards the table to get everything perfectly flush.
Let the Glue Dry Well Before Using
Until the glue is completely dry, the corners are not that strong. Wait at least a few hours before you mount your artwork and add the hanging hardware. It’s even better to wait 24 hours, if you can. Most of the frame mouldings are ready-finished, but if you have chosen unfinished wood then you can add your own finish such as acrylic paint, spray paint, stain, metal leaf, clear or coloured wax, or varnish. Once your frame is assembled and dry you can then mount your artwork and add your hanging hardware.
The Jackson’s ready-made frames come with all the hardware for mounting (inserting) the work and hanging it. For the self assembly frames, you will need to purchase these separately. There are options at the bottom of the frame builder page. The ready-assembled frames are also available as sets that come with a blank canvas or panel of the appropriate size, which are a great value.
Further Reading
How to Stretch Canvas: a Visual Guide
How to Use the Canvas Wedges That Come with a Canvas or Stretcher Bars
Choosing the Right Frame for Your Artwork
Charvin Oil Paints – Largest Colour Range in the World
Shop Jackson’s Bespoke Framing on jacksonsart.com
Shop Jackson’s Ready-Made Frames on jacksonsart.com
2 thoughts on “How to Assemble Jackson’s Bespoke Frames”
Really practical article. Thank you!
Makes it feel totally achievable to
construct the frames myself.
I wonder if you could follow up with the
next step- how to securely mount your
work inside the frame? I work with both
canvases and your wooden surfaces so
would love some expert guidance on
how to professionally secure them
inside the frames
Hi Christine, glad you found it helpful!
This will be a series of four practical articles. And the next one is about mounting work in the frame. I’m glad to hear it will be useful to you!
The following two will be about choosing hanging hardware and framing work on paper.
Thanks for reading the blog!
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