Traditionally, oil painting requires the use of solvents (usually turpentine) to thin the paint and clean brushes. These solvents emit heady fumes which can cause headaches and can dry your skin. Some of the pigments in oil paint also possess an element of toxicity, and prolonged skin exposure is not recommended. However, you can make your oil painting session safer. Non-toxic thinners, water-mixable oil paints, and barrier creams can all help to reduce contact with unpleasant solvents. Here are five simple steps you can take for safer oil painting.
1. Safer Oil Painting With Water-mixable Oils
There is little difference between the characteristics of traditional oil paint and water-mixable oil paint. So it’s possible to enjoy the lustre of oils without requiring solvents to thin paint or clean brushes. As the name suggests, water can be mixed to dilute your colour. Brushes can be washed with soap and water.
Experienced oil painters may notice a little difference in the handling of the paint, but the differences tend to be very slight. You can read Julie Caves’ water-mixable oil paint comparison post for an in-depth analysis of how they perform.
Water-mixable oil colour brands can be mixed with one another. They can also be mixed with regular oils, although of course they then lose their water miscibility. Daniel Smith, Cobra and Holbein Duo-Aqua all offer water-mixable painting mediums in their ranges. By adding a fast-drying painting medium or linseed oil, it’s possible to extend your water-mixable oil paint. There are also fast drying mediums available.
You can use the same brushes and canvas that you would use for regular oil painting. It would also be useful to have some rags close to hand for blotting your brushes. The only difference in the process is exchanging a jar of solvent for a jar of water. No more heady fumes to give you a headache and no harsh solvents that dry your skin out. And no more respiratory issues either!
But what if you love a particular brand of oils and just don’t want to change to water-mixable alternatives? You might consider reducing the amount of solvent present in your painting sessions by using Gamblin non-toxic painting mediums. This post compares the Gamblin mediums with Liquin original.
2. Low Odour and Odourless Solvents
There are several low-odour or completely odourless solvents now available for thinning oil paint and cleaning oil painting brushes. The safest low-odour solvents such as Gamsol have had 99.95% of the most harmful aromatic solvents refined out of them. They are great for thinning oil and alkyd paints. Among the other brands you can choose from are Jackson’s Pure Sol, Lukas Citrus Turpentine and Langridge Solvent 75.
How To Get The Most From Your Solvent
A great way to get maximum usage from your solvent is to set up a rotation system in your studio. When your pot of solvent starts to look a bit murky, put a lid on it. Put it to one side and start with another. Over time, the sediment in your first pot will sink to the bottom. You can then decant the clear solvent into a fresh jar and use it again. The sediment from the bottom of your first jar can be wiped with a rag or piece of kitchen paper towel. You could even just allow it to dry at the bottom if there’s not very much sediment. It will harden as it oxidises and will not re-dilute if more solvent is then poured into the same jar.
You can keep using the same solvent for a considerable amount of time with this rotation system. Aim for two pots of solvent and a spare jar to hand and allow for the sediment to sink in the jar you’re not using.
In comparison to regular white spirit or turpentine, the less harmful solvents are more expensive. But using them in this way will help you get maximum usage from them, and you will avoid any heady fumes. Not to mention respiratory or dermatological issues that you might be prone to with traditional white spirit and turpentine.
3. Safer Brush Cleaning Using Oil
Another way to avoid using traditional solvents after painting with oils is to use vegetable oil. Here’s the process:
- Blot the excess paint from your brushes onto a rag or some old newspaper.
- Dip them into a little vegetable oil and work the oil into the bristles with your fingers. This will help to get any further paint from your brush.
- Blot and repeat until there is no more paint coming out.
- Finish the clean-up operation by washing with soap and water. You can use regular soaps but artist soaps such as The Master’s Brush Cleaner and Preserver contain natural oils that help condition the brush hairs, which in turn holds the shape of the brush head for longer.
- Once your brushes are clean, the best thing to do is hang them up by their handles so that any moisture can run out of the brush head. If this is not done moisture can sometimes cause splits in the wood of the handle, and lacquer coatings to flake off.
- Any surfaces that feel a little greasy can be degreased with a household spray cleaner.
Your painting palette can be cleaned similarly, and if it’s wooden will last longer if you clean it with oil rather than solvent. Scrape the paint from your palette using a palette knife and wipe the remaining excess paint away with a rag. Then clean the rest away by pouring a bit of oil on the surface and wiping with another rag. The oil will help to condition the palette and reduce its absorbency and susceptibility to staining.
4. Avoiding Contact with Oil Paint
If you have sensitive skin or are prone to respiratory issues, you may find that oil painting mediums and solvents can only worsen the issue. Largely this is due to the solvents contained in these products, which can emit heady fumes as well as dry your skin.
Additionally, pigments have varying degrees of toxicity. Once the solvents have dried the skin out, it’s not healthy to expose the skin to pigments that can seep into the skin. Sensibly, many of the most toxic pigments are no longer used in oil paint manufacture and have been replaced with safer alternatives. So while there isn’t as great a health risk as there once was, it’s still wise to take precautions. Especially when handling the more toxic pigment – such as lead, cobalt, and cadmium paints.
It’s a good idea to wear latex gloves, vinyl gloves or barrier cream when painting, especially if you have sensitive or dry skin conditions. Oil paint can be hard to scrub off completely and pigments become ingrained in the surface of dry skin.
Gloves can make your hands a little clammy but they’re the safest option for protecting your hands. Art Guard Barrier Cream are a close alternative. It can feel a bit greasy but a layer of this cream makes it easier to wash the paint off after a painting session.
Alternatives to Barrier Cream or Latex Gloves
If you choose not to use barrier cream or gloves you may spend considerable time with a scrubbing brush. Or you could try using Swarfega (gritted soap). You could also try working the paint away from your hands with an oily substance such as vegetable oil, moisturiser, or even smooth peanut butter! These have all been proven to help remove paint.
5. Good Ventilation For Safer Oil Painting
If you cannot avoid using solvents (and even if you can!) it’s always a good idea to paint in a well-ventilated space. Have a window or two open to allow for air and any fumes to circulate. The use of low-odour solvents can help with reducing the potential for headaches. But ventilation is still an extremely good idea, as they still emit fumes as regular solvents do.
Updated 29th October 2024
Further Reading
The Difference Between Luminescent, Pearlescent, and Iridescent Paint
Choosing a Clear Primer for Oil Painting
Inside the Sketchbook of Lisa Takahashi
Shop Art Materials on jacksonsart.com
30 thoughts on “5 Steps to Safer Oil Painting”
Thank you very much for this useful information. I am using water miscible oils and
understand I can mix in traditional oils but lose the ability to clean up with water, is it OK to
use Zest-it to clean brushes that have been used with both types of oil paint in one session.
Thanks.
Hi Lynda!
Yes, you can use solvents such as Zest-it to clean up water-miscible oil paints as well as regular oil paint.
Many thanks for reading.
Lisa
Thanks for your tip to use veg oil for
cleaning. Seems to me like both a cheaper
and safer option. I’ll give it a try.
Great! Thank you for reading
Nice useful article, thankyou. I was also
hoping to read which actual colours
would be a more environmentally
friendly choice….mining, toxicity,
manufacturing processes. I realise there
is no such thing as a completely ‘free
lunch’ but am keen to make the best
choices possible.
Hi Susan
Thank you for your comment, that is a really good suggestion for more information in this area and indeed we are working on it. Are there any in particular you are interested in for starters?
Many thanks
Lisa
I’ve found that inexpensive olive oil soap works very well for cleaning hands and brushes.
Hi Amanda
Yes, that is a good tip, pure olive oil soap does clean hands and brushes well. The best soaps are the ones to use that have the most natural ingredients, as they are less likely to dry both skin and brush hair out, prolonging the life of both!
Thanks
Lisa
Hi! I paint with linseed oil, but is about to
change to valnut oil. I use this as a
medium mixed with a little bit of thinner
that says it`s not harmful. How will the air
be in my studio then? I`m about to move
my paint and equipment into a new room
where I can paint, because I was thinking
to put a ventilation fan into the wall, would
this help? Will it at all be necessary? Will
it be more or less helpfull with a portable
aircleaner machine that claim to remove
fumes and gasses?
HI Jannicke
Thanks for your question. The oil will not emit fumes, so exchanging linseed for walnut won’t affect the quality of the air. If you are OK with your paint medium as it is currently I don’t see why you would need to install extra ventilation.
All solvents will emit some fumes, traces in the safer versions such as Gamsol or Zest it. If you need to exercise extra caution then a ventilation fan or an open window is a good idea.
Many thanks
Lisa
Hi! Is it good to paint in your bedroom? I
have a big room and I don’t use solvents,
just linseed/saffron oil. I paint with open
windows, but I was wondering if it’s still
okay for sleeping with wet canvas and
rugs laying around?
Hi Mimi,
Oil paint without solvents does not emit fumes so it is safe to sleep in the same room. Some pigments in oil paint are toxic so you as long as your hands/skin is clean and free from prolonged exposure to pigments you will be safe.
Many thanks
Lisa
Hi Lisa, I very respectfully disagree. I took my oil paints on a trip, so I packed them in a tight container, and I am shocked by the intense smell when I open the container. Now I always keep them in a closed container when not in use.
Sleeping in the room with wet canvas?? I am not a doctor, but I think that is a bad idea.
Hi,
Thanks for your thoughts. Oil paints do have a strong smell of oil, but oil alone will not cause adverse harm. The only other ingredients in the majority of oil paints is pigment, which is encased within the oil, and that will not emit anything into the air either. As will all strong smells, it may be best to avoid having to sleep in the same room if you can, but if not, maximise ventilation as much as you can. However always keep lids on solvents and paints to be on the safe side.
Thanks
Lisa
Wonderful article!!! I want to try oils
(currently use acrylics) and was skeptical
about the toxic properties. This has clearly
taught me a few things. Thank you!!!
I noticed under the last picture there is a
caption about letting in fresh air whether
you’re working with solvents or not. I’m
just a bit confused here – if the oils don’t
emit any fumes and you’re not using any
solvents at all, does it matter if a window
is open??? I don’t open windows when I
paint with acrylics – – maybe I should be??
Thank you for qualifying. I really enjoyed
this article.
Hi,
No, ventilation is most important when using solvents. When working without it is not so necessary, although with both acrylic and oils there are some who prefer more ventilation to neutralise the smell of the paint.
Thanks for your comment.
Lisa
How about out gassing on paintings as they
dry? I use Graham Walnut Alkyd Medium
with Cobra Paints. Clean up with Master’s or
Jack’s Studio Linseed Soap. So I consider
myself mostly toxic free but, if I am using
cadmium paints, wouldn’t they out gas while
drying?
Hi Michele
Cadmium pigments in oil paint will not emit gases as the paint is drying.
Many thanks
Lisa
Cleaned up today with vegetable oil
instead of solvent. THANK YOU for the
wonderful tip!!!
Oh that’s great! My pleasure!
Lisa
Hi I am so glad I found this blog .I paint
with cobra oil mixing with water paint.I
hae a big canvas I painted and rolled it
after I thought it was already dry.I opened
the painting last week and saw many oil
stains on the blank parts canvas.How can
I clean them .Thank you
Hi Patricia,
Thanks for your question. If the oil paint is dry then it may not be possible to remove. I would try rubbing with a clean rag dipped in white spirit or turpentine. Hopefully if the paint is very thin then this will remove the stains.
Many thanks
Lisa
Thank you Lisa .the stains are oil without
paint.I painted on the stains with white
acrylic.It seems to be good .
Ah! that’s good to hear…good thinking. If the oil is thin and completely dry it will be safe to apply acrylic over the top.
All the best
Lisa
Hi Lisa
I have just started using alkyd oil paint with
walnut alkyd oil as a medium (no solvents).
I’ve noticed that the alkyd oils paints have
quite a strong smell to them and was
wondering if alkyd products emit any toxic
fumes? Thank you
Hi Lucy,
I am not 100% certain of the answer to this so I have contacted Gamblin and Winsor & Newton to advise whether their alkyd paints contain solvents. I do know that petroleum distillates are present in some alkyd mediums, such as Liquin, but I need to confirm whether they are also present in the paints themselves. I will let you know as soon as I am given the information.
Many thanks
Lisa
I use Masters Soap cleaner after first
removing a lot of the oil paint with
Turpenoid.But the Masters instructions
say to rinse the soap from brushes down
the sink. Is that ok? Seems there is still
some oil going down the drain.
Hi Linda
I guess it’s a case of doing the best you can, minimizing pigments down the drain. It sounds like you are doing a good job.
Awesome article. I’ve just started using
water-mixable oils and just ordered a set
of alla prima Rosemary and co brushes
from you which I’ve yet to try. Can I ask,
after cleaning the brushes with soap and
water, should i dab the brushes into
some baby oil (or safflower oil etc) to
preserve the brushes better so they
won’t dry out? As I’m worried if i wash
with soap and water and simply leave to
dry then the water will damage the
brushes. I’ve been reading mixed views
on this. Hope you can put my mind at
ease.
Thanks
Hi Lisa
That is a great brush set, isn’t it!
Baby oil is a mineral oil, not a drying oil, so it will always stay liquid. This can be a problem if you get it in your paints, because it would contaminate the drying oil. There are oils that absorb oxygen because they are polyunsaturated, meaning they have parts of their molecule that have a place for an oxygen molecule to attach. These are called drying oils because when they are exposed to air, they harden as they absorb the oxygen from the air. That is why oil paints are made with drying oils like linseed and safflower, and not olive oil or baby oil which stay liquid. Since safflower is a drying oil, leaving it on your brushes is the same as leaving them dirty and they will go hard.
Brush hairs get dry from solvents. So if you use solvents in your painting or to clean the brushes, then a final wash with a brush soap will restore their suppleness. If you clean your brushes with safflower oil, which although it is a slow-drying oil is still a drying oil, you will need to use a brush soap to remove all the oil or your brushes will get stiff as the oil hardens.
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